Self-powered adventures in Lapland and beyond


Backpacking North offers in-depth trip reports, gear analyses, ultralight training, thought-provoking articles, and beautiful photography from Lapland, Finland, and beyond.

Writing and photography by Mark Roberts



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I’d been promising Enni a camping trip for months. As usual, things had conspired against me delivering on my promise; too hot weather, too cold weather, flu, school… There always seemed to be a reason. Then, out of the blue, in mid October the weather turned all Indian summer on us. Coinciding as it did with the Autumn holidays, I couldn’t put it off any longer.

It's been fifteen months since my last backpacking trip, or, indeed, a single night spent outdoors. Plenty of time has been spent outdoors, though most if it was in the saddle or tethered to an ageing and increasingly blind dog. And certainly, it has been an incredibly active year – I can't think of a moment when it would have been possible to sneak off for a night, and on the few occasions where I had hatched a plan, a cold or other illness would magically appear to put an end to it.

So, what has happened?

Time. Lives. Landscapes. Paths. History. Identity. They all come together in Treriksröset. They meet, blend, and blur at the punctum where three countries meet: Finland, Sweden, and Norway.

With the arctic winter fully behind us under the assault of an alarmingly tropical spring, I see a break in the calendar and hatch a cunning plan for a weekend overnighter and the chance to revisit an area I've not been to for over ten years: Korouoma Nature Reserve – a canyon cutting a diagonal slice through Lapland about 100km from my home in Rovaniemi.