Friday, 17 June 2011

Testing the Waters

I know, I know... it's been an age since I last posted. The cobwebs have been growing in the corners of the blog (blogwebs?) so it's time for a spot of dusting, and a quick paddle.


Packrafts, in case you hadn't noticed, are all the rage at the moment. Roman Dial got everyone excited about it, Andrew Skurka travelled halfway around Alaska in one, Ryan Jordan loves it, Hendrik can't keep his hands off his, Jaakko just got one, even Phil and Steve got their oars wet. Being a zietgeisty kind of guy, I wanted in on the action. I could see that a packraft would be a perfect addition to life in Lapland. A lightweight, solid, inflatable raft to take anywhere, cross anything? With all the water in Lapland (and in Finland at large), it's a no-brainer.

Except for the price.

As soon as you get involved with water, your initial investments start to accumulate. It's not just the packraft – an Alpacka Denali Llama is a sunny $820 – but the paddle, the PFD, the drysuit if you want one. It all adds up to a lot of money. More than my poor starving artist salary could possibly afford. But outdoor people are such a wonderful bunch, and I happily accepted an offer from Mr. Jordan to lend me his spare Denali Llama.

I've only been able to take it out a couple of times for test paddles on flat water. This year's floods have lasted an unusually long time, and I'm not confident enough to risk another person's boat on an unpredictable and unknown river in flood. But nonetheless, I'll make hay while the sun shines, and make the most of the ample lakes around Minneapolis to get used to the different techniques required by a lightweight inflatable.


My MLD Burn pack makes a perfect day pack for the Denali Llama. It's quite amazing that so much boat fits into something so small.

The inflation sack provided with the raft makes quick work of inflating the raft. With about ten squeezes, the silnylon bag had filled the raft with air. But as Roman Dial's excellent guide to Packrafting points out, it's important not to just head straight out onto the water.


Because the air temperature in the tubes is much higher than the water temperature, the raft will deflate quite a lot when you put it in the water. For that reason, you need to really soak the raft before you head out, and re-inflate using the handy valve on the side.

With that done, I was ready to go.


It's an odd feeling at first, to feel the water rippling under you. I'd padded the seat using a 4-piece Z-Lite, and I soon got used to the proximity to water. I was surprised, for some reason, at how low I sat in the water. The large tubes make it appear as if you will be sitting quite high, but in face you are at about the same height as in a kayak.


And man, is this thing maneuverable! I knew that inflatables are notoriously easy to turn, and get swung around in currents, but still I was surprised. The paddling technique requires a firm downward, almost vertical stroke to prevent a wildly oscillating path. Unlike a kayak, which has an element of forgiveness in the design (especially with sea kayaks), the packraft will zig-zag all over the place. However, once you get into the habit of making steep strokes, you can maintain a pretty straight line.


The advantage of this incredible responsiveness will be in the ability to quickly maneuver around obstacles. I tried a technique outlined in the Packrafting book, in which a wider forward stroke is followed immediately by a backward push, and the boat swirled in the water instantly. In fact, backward paddling is by far the fastest way to turn in a hurry. (This might not be so much the case in the new models with the more pointy stern. Also, the new designs should track straighter in the water.)


Although nowhere near as fast as a kayak, it's possible to keep a pretty good pace going. I can definitely see the benefit of having a fitted skirt to protect from splashes. I fully anticipated getting wet on this occasion, and I succeeded admirably. For longer trips a splash skirt would be essential.


Taking photographs with an expensive touch-screen phone is not very practical while packrafting, but these things must be attempted for the sake of documentation.


All-in-all, it was a very enjoyable experience. I hope to take it out on a gentle river before I return it, to get a sense of how it handles in a current. I'm really not into running whitewater beyond a class II rapid, but who knows – these bugs bite very easily, and once bitten, they leave their mark.

Purchasing one is still a little way off; maybe next year. One of the reasons the blog has been a little neglected of late is that I landed some writing work for a game producer. After writing all day, the last thing I want to do is come home and write some more. Add the upcoming life changes to that and you'll understand if blogging continues to take a back seat for a little while. The upswing of work is money, and if everything works out, I'll be in a much better position upon my return to Lapland in December, ready for new adventures. Who knows, next year a packraft might not seem like such an impossible purchase after all!

Those interested in the packrafting phenomenon should check out:
Alpacka Packrafts - Super-rugged packrafts for the connoisseur
Flyweight Designs - Lighter, cheaper, but less rugged. They just announced the FlyteWater, a more rugged version for $465.

18 comments:

  1. nielsenbrown17 June 2011 20:27

    Yeah this looks like fun, I just need to get started, but maybe it will be after next winter.

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  2. It's certainly worth looking into. A bit of an investment though. For that reason, I'm thinking that while I could get a FlyteWater for less, I might invest in the rugged do-it-all Alpacka at some point. Imagine... it opens up all kinds of things in Lapland... that little island you always fancied camping on...

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  3. The white water bug will bite you soon enough, and you will want to do more of it, again and again =)

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  4. I spent this evening (it's about 0200 am now in Finland) flipping the Llama in a pond and getting back in. With packback and without, with pfd and without, etc. I even tried to make a roll with it but it's quite impossible without beefy spray skirt or thigh straps. One might think that kind of stufff would be boring but no way! Packrafts are great because they make you smile, all the time. :)

    I'm not sure, but today might have been the first day ever in Finland when two Alpackas were on the same place same time?

    The new FlyteWater looks interesting. Might be something that my fishing (and hikign along the way) friends would appreciate and could afford. Have to try to get the Flytepacker for some test strokes at some point...

    Mark: There's one Alpacka available for rent in Rovaniemi, so if you want to do a harder packraft trip or two a year, you could always rent one and use the FlyteWater/FlytePacker for easier stuff with more walking. I think that we should start to plan the first Finnish packraft flotilla? And for that we need some nice wilderness white water with a walk-in too much for kayakers. ;)

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  5. I suspect you might be right :)

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  6. Flipping the Llama (a new expression? "Happy? I was totally flipping the llama, man!") in a pond doesn't sound boring at all. I hope you caught it on video!

    I think the FlyteWater will prove to be a hit, and get more people into packrafting. For backpacking it looks pretty sweet so far. I'm almost tempted by it, but like I said, if I'm going to invest in something like that I'd like to try to get something more rugged. It would be good to test it though.

    What is the place that rents the Aplacka in Rovaniemi? And where did you hear about it? I am intrigued...

    And an Alpacka flotilla? I'm flippin' the llama!

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  7. He Mark very nice experience.
    I had the chance to test my boat in white water last week (an article is in work).
    I only can say "Do it". White water  is fantastic. You will love it.

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  8. I got into kayaking after sea kayaking in Abel Tasman in New Zealand and then did quite a bit of whitewater kayaking in Wales over the next few years. However it's been some time since I found myself with a paddle in my hands (Werner was always my favourite) and I do miss it so it's fun for me to read yours and Hendrik's exploits on the water. I would love to try it out - when we hiked around Glaskogen a few years ago I thought a lot about crossing it in a packraft. Nice post Mark.

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  9. Looks fun! I think it's inevitable that I try this too at some point in time. Great post. Cool pictures.

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  10. When I think of whitewater, I always think of Vikaköngäs rapids near my home in Rovaniemi. You'll understand from the pictures why I'm both hesitant and drawn to them... If I could ever get through these, I'd be seriously impressed!

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  11. I'd love to do some more sea kayaking. I just love the boats - long, sleek, and fast.

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  12. Go for it Thomas! You know you want to...

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  13. Fantastic rapids. I think I have to visit you in Rovaniemi, when you are back in Finland. Do you know which white water classification it is

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  14. I'm back in December, so next year and you're on!

    From what I saw, they are a Class II to III depending on season/water flow. There are two sets of rapids within about 20km that both look pretty f***ing scary if you ask me. But I've seen bunches of tourists on the big inflatables going down them occasionally.

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  15. Today spent flippin' the llama in white water. Was awsome, like the saying suggests. ;)

    The raft is a private Yukon Yak and I heard about it from another fellow. I can e-mail contact information if needed. It's not especially cheap but quite reasonable if you do one long trip a year or so.

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  16. Thanks! The Yukon Yak is a touch small for me I think - I just fit in a Llama. And anyway, I'm going to want to do it more than once a year :)

    Curious to know who it is though! It's always nice to meet like-minded adventurers.

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  17. The more I read about packrafting the more I want to try it for myself. Any tips for noobie?

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  18. Mark Roberts28 June 2011 16:40

    Well... Expect to get wet. Paddle at a steep angle. Try it out on flat water first. Read Roman Dial's "Packrafting" book, and perhaps a book on kayaking. Oh, and wear a PFD (I know I wasn't, but I don't want to get sued!).

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