After what seemed like an eternity, a window of opportunity opened. I'd been getting crabby and a little depressed at home, sure signs that I needed a little outdoor alone-time, so I was eager to seize a chance to stretch my legs. But where to go?
For quick overnight trips, I often go to Afton State Park. It's near the Twin Cities, and is a pleasant enough escape. But I've been there I think three times in the last year now. It was getting a little too familiar, so I started looking for somewhere new nearby.
There are several State Parks, State Forests, and other managed lands scattered around Minneapolis and St. Paul. What I wanted was to camp near water, and scout out a few areas for some packrafting later on. Jeremy at
Trek Lightly mentioned the Governor Knowles State Forest in Wisconsin, but when I checked it out the website informed me that I'd have to book a campsite 7 days in advance. I can't stand booking campsites in advance. To me it's anathema to the whole point of being outside. It's too planned, and makes me feel too much like I'm part of an administrative system, rather than a free spirit. I want to camp when and where I feel like camping.
I was looking at St. Croix State Park, the largest state park in Minnesota, but it only offered two backpacking sites - a bit of a disappointment. Thankfully Jeremy came to the rescue again and recommended Wild River SP. Seven sites, 37 miles of trails, the St. Croix river, and no need to book anything in advance.
After a late start, I made the hour drive north, and arrived after the office closed. It's necessary to pre-pay for a backpacking site, and to declare which site you will stay at. The park seemed empty to me, and as nobody was there to tell me any different, I just scribbled something random on the form and let it be.
Eager to set off, I found a parking site, shouldered my huckePACK, and set off - only for disaster to strike moments later. I'd left something in the car; something vital, and slightly illegal as it is not permitted within the state parks. For this reason I will not divulge what said item was, except that it rhymes with Durban.
So, fully packed, with LT4 poles extended, I set off again, heading toward the section of the park where several backpacking sites were located, making a brief stop to fill up with water (the park guide states that water is not available at backpacking sites, which is not strictly true. What it means is that backpacking sites have not been fitted with taps/faucets - there is plenty of water around to collect and filter.)
As the trail led steadily uphill through some pleasant woodland I heard a strange sound. A distinct
growl. The kind of irritated, guttural growl that could only be one thing: a bear. I cursed my apparent animal magnetism. Still, I knew I'd be heading away from that sound, and as I could also hear a chicken somewhere in the distance I decided to concentrate on that instead.
Before long I reached the summit, if we can call the top of a small hill a summit. An unusually English-looking scene spread out before me; rolling hills, clumps of trees and bushes, even a oak tree. I felt oddly nostalgic.
I passed a couple of the backpacking sites - Aspen Knob and Breezy Valley. Both seemed pleasant enough, but I didn't want to camp in a forest of leafless trees. I wanted a view, and headed onwards.
A small stream soon blocked my path, and offered me a chance to put my Terroc 330s to the test. I happily sloshed across, shoes and socks getting soaked, and was pleased to find my merino socks kept my feet warm as the shoes slowly dried out along the trail. It's a most liberating feeling, and it put a big smile on my face.
Not long after this, the landscape opened out again onto a large meadow. Frogs warbled from a pond as I passed by, heading to a potential campsite overlooking the field.
When I found the site, I mulled over the possibility of staying there. Sadly, some previous visitors had left a bunch of beer cans lying around. After collecting them up, I assessed the lay of the land. If I stayed here, I'd have a nice morning view. I might even see some coyote (or that bear) crossing the meadow. But something felt wrong. Maybe it was that large mound and the suspicious holes indicating some kind of burrow nearby.
I checked the map. It wasn't far to the river, and a canoe campsite which looked promising. On my downloaded map it was marked as a canoe/backpacking site, but on the park map it was just for canoeists. Sod it. I'd take a look anyway. I was pretty sure nobody else would be there - I hadn't seen a single soul so far. The only risk would be if it was under the flood water.
I raised my hand up to the setting sun. Three fingers between it and the horizon. About three hours. More than enough time to get to the river and back if necessary, and still have time to spare to set up camp. I set off again.
It was really no distance at all, just a mile or so. But when I arrived I found perfection - exactly the kind of site I was looking for.
A perfectly manicured, riverside campsite, complete with picnic table and fire grate. Luxury. Hardly a backcountry feeling, but I wasn't complaining. I took a little time to look around before setting up the SpinnTwin and bivy.
The sun began setting as I gathered kindling and tried to find some dry wood for the BushBuddy to eat.
All around, the sounds of nature filled the air. An owl hooting a real
twick-twoo. Some swans agitated at my presence. The splosh of a beaver diving.
The wood was a little wet, but with a vaseline soaked cotton ball, the BushBuddy soon had a good burn going, and my bland Beef Stroganoff was ready in no time. One day, I hope to try Fuzion's backpacking meals. Hopefully soon.
I poured a little of that which rhymes with Durban into my Kupilka kuksa, and sipped away my abstract fears. Of course there are no bears! They're not mentioned on the info leaflet, and thus they are far, far away.
This trip, I remembered to bring some additional shock cord to attach my Exped pillow to my POE Ether Elite. It was perfect. Absolutely no slippage.
I also figured out a great way to attach the bivy, mattress, and quilt together. The Katabatic Bristlecone has two sets of internal attachment points. I clipped the pad to the lower set, and my GoLite quilt to the upper, and had probably the best night's sleep I have ever had outdoors.
The stars were bright, the air increasingly cold. During the night I awoke to find myself surprisingly chilly. Fortunately I'd packed my hot socks and BPL Cocoon pants – possibly my greatest recent purchase – and after slipping into them I returned to a deep sleep.
I cannot emphasise enough how great it is to sleep in a quilt compared to a sleeping bag. I no longer have to wrestle with hoods and draw cords at night, and I sleep as well as I do at home. It's possible that the Durban helped, but the quilt has transformed my nights beyond belief.
I decided to take the SpinnTwin with me this time as the weather was getting warmer, and I hadn't used it since last summer. I have to say that waking up under an open tarp, with a view through the large bug mesh window of the Bristlecone (I had is closed as protection against the cold) is pure joy.
When I crawled out from the shelter though, I found that it was considerably colder than the forecast had predicted.
A thick layer of frost coated everything, the side effect of sleeping next to a large body of water. Much of my carefully collected stash of twigs was now damp, so I went in search of more.
Mist rose from the river, shrouding everything.
I didn't have much luck finding dry wood, and had to make do with what I could scrape together. Damp kindling and moist twigs do not a good fire make, and for the first time, the BushBuddy struggled to bring my pot to a boil - taking almost 40 minutes of continuous, frustrated coaxing.
But eventually it worked. Oatmeal was consumed. The SpinnTwin was taken down. The amazing huckePACK was loaded. And I was ready for a morning stroll.
I was in no hurry to return, so decided to take the long way back to the car and explore the park a little more.
As the sun rose and the mist evaporated, I followed a trail along the banks of the St. Croix.
I followed old military trails and logging tracks dating from the early 1800s.
Suddenly, a flash of white above me. From the treetops, a bald eagle swept into the air. As usual I fumbled for my camera, too slow to capture it. It flow across to an island and landed near it's nest, watching me.
Further along the trail a came across what I assume was it's lunch (there were no nests nearby anyway).
At the site of an old logging dam I turned away from the river and headed inland, towards the prairies.
The variation of landscapes in the park was very pleasant. Form hills to river, meadows to forest, thicket to prairie, it's a nicely rounded park which I had all to myself.
As the sun rose higher, it was time to try out my new "Survivorman" outfit.
Fortunately, I only had a few more hours to spend in the park, and no reason to start eating weevils. Instead nibbled on a delicious Tanka Buffalo bar and some dried cranberries.
Refreshed from trail food, and the trail itself, I found myself once again at the parking lot. I'd walked 8 miles - which surprised me. I felt I'd walked two or three at most. Such is the light-footed feeling one gets with trail runners like the Terrocs and a lighter load. I could have happily gone on all day, taking the longer path, following whatever diversion I happened upon. I felt relaxed, renewed, happy to have been exploring somewhere new.
I thought back on my fears yesterday – about that bear I heard, and that I thought I would assuredly see at some point. I must have been mad. A bear? When I could hear chickens? And no mention of bears in the park information. No signs about bear hanging. What was I thinking?
As I drove out the park, and passed a farm on the boundary I realised...
That bear I heard was probably a cow.
After what seemed like an eternity, a window of opportunity opened. I'd been getting crabby and a little depressed at home, sure signs that I needed a little outdoor alone-time, so I was eager to seize a chance to stretch my legs. But where to go?
For quick overnight trips, I often go to Afton State Park. It's near the Twin Cities, and is a pleasant enough escape. But I've been there I think three times in the last year now. It was getting a little too familiar, so I started looking for somewhere new nearby.
There are several State Parks, State Forests, and other managed lands scattered around Minneapolis and St. Paul. What I wanted was to camp near water, and scout out a few areas for some packrafting later on. Jeremy at
Trek Lightly mentioned the Governor Knowles State Forest in Wisconsin, but when I checked it out the website informed me that I'd have to book a campsite 7 days in advance. I can't stand booking campsites in advance. To me it's anathema to the whole point of being outside. It's too planned, and makes me feel too much like I'm part of an administrative system, rather than a free spirit. I want to camp when and where I feel like camping.
I was looking at St. Croix State Park, the largest state park in Minnesota, but it only offered two backpacking sites - a bit of a disappointment. Thankfully Jeremy came to the rescue again and recommended Wild River SP. Seven sites, 37 miles of trails, the St. Croix river, and no need to book anything in advance.
After a late start, I made the hour drive north, and arrived after the office closed. It's necessary to pre-pay for a backpacking site, and to declare which site you will stay at. The park seemed empty to me, and as nobody was there to tell me any different, I just scribbled something random on the form and let it be.
Eager to set off, I found a parking site, shouldered my huckePACK, and set off - only for disaster to strike moments later. I'd left something in the car; something vital, and slightly illegal as it is not permitted within the state parks. For this reason I will not divulge what said item was, except that it rhymes with Durban.
So, fully packed, with LT4 poles extended, I set off again, heading toward the section of the park where several backpacking sites were located, making a brief stop to fill up with water (the park guide states that water is not available at backpacking sites, which is not strictly true. What it means is that backpacking sites have not been fitted with taps/faucets - there is plenty of water around to collect and filter.)
As the trail led steadily uphill through some pleasant woodland I heard a strange sound. A distinct
growl. The kind of irritated, guttural growl that could only be one thing: a bear. I cursed my apparent animal magnetism. Still, I knew I'd be heading away from that sound, and as I could also hear a chicken somewhere in the distance I decided to concentrate on that instead.
Before long I reached the summit, if we can call the top of a small hill a summit. An unusually English-looking scene spread out before me; rolling hills, clumps of trees and bushes, even a oak tree. I felt oddly nostalgic.
I passed a couple of the backpacking sites - Aspen Knob and Breezy Valley. Both seemed pleasant enough, but I didn't want to camp in a forest of leafless trees. I wanted a view, and headed onwards.
A small stream soon blocked my path, and offered me a chance to put my Terroc 330s to the test. I happily sloshed across, shoes and socks getting soaked, and was pleased to find my merino socks kept my feet warm as the shoes slowly dried out along the trail. It's a most liberating feeling, and it put a big smile on my face.
Not long after this, the landscape opened out again onto a large meadow. Frogs warbled from a pond as I passed by, heading to a potential campsite overlooking the field.
When I found the site, I mulled over the possibility of staying there. Sadly, some previous visitors had left a bunch of beer cans lying around. After collecting them up, I assessed the lay of the land. If I stayed here, I'd have a nice morning view. I might even see some coyote (or that bear) crossing the meadow. But something felt wrong. Maybe it was that large mound and the suspicious holes indicating some kind of burrow nearby.
I checked the map. It wasn't far to the river, and a canoe campsite which looked promising. On my downloaded map it was marked as a canoe/backpacking site, but on the park map it was just for canoeists. Sod it. I'd take a look anyway. I was pretty sure nobody else would be there - I hadn't seen a single soul so far. The only risk would be if it was under the flood water.
I raised my hand up to the setting sun. Three fingers between it and the horizon. About three hours. More than enough time to get to the river and back if necessary, and still have time to spare to set up camp. I set off again.
It was really no distance at all, just a mile or so. But when I arrived I found perfection - exactly the kind of site I was looking for.
A perfectly manicured, riverside campsite, complete with picnic table and fire grate. Luxury. Hardly a backcountry feeling, but I wasn't complaining. I took a little time to look around before setting up the SpinnTwin and bivy.
The sun began setting as I gathered kindling and tried to find some dry wood for the BushBuddy to eat.
All around, the sounds of nature filled the air. An owl hooting a real
twick-twoo. Some swans agitated at my presence. The splosh of a beaver diving.
The wood was a little wet, but with a vaseline soaked cotton ball, the BushBuddy soon had a good burn going, and my bland Beef Stroganoff was ready in no time. One day, I hope to try Fuzion's backpacking meals. Hopefully soon.
I poured a little of that which rhymes with Durban into my Kupilka kuksa, and sipped away my abstract fears. Of course there are no bears! They're not mentioned on the info leaflet, and thus they are far, far away.
This trip, I remembered to bring some additional shock cord to attach my Exped pillow to my POE Ether Elite. It was perfect. Absolutely no slippage.
I also figured out a great way to attach the bivy, mattress, and quilt together. The Katabatic Bristlecone has two sets of internal attachment points. I clipped the pad to the lower set, and my GoLite quilt to the upper, and had probably the best night's sleep I have ever had outdoors.
The stars were bright, the air increasingly cold. During the night I awoke to find myself surprisingly chilly. Fortunately I'd packed my hot socks and BPL Cocoon pants – possibly my greatest recent purchase – and after slipping into them I returned to a deep sleep.
I cannot emphasise enough how great it is to sleep in a quilt compared to a sleeping bag. I no longer have to wrestle with hoods and draw cords at night, and I sleep as well as I do at home. It's possible that the Durban helped, but the quilt has transformed my nights beyond belief.
I decided to take the SpinnTwin with me this time as the weather was getting warmer, and I hadn't used it since last summer. I have to say that waking up under an open tarp, with a view through the large bug mesh window of the Bristlecone (I had is closed as protection against the cold) is pure joy.
When I crawled out from the shelter though, I found that it was considerably colder than the forecast had predicted.
A thick layer of frost coated everything, the side effect of sleeping next to a large body of water. Much of my carefully collected stash of twigs was now damp, so I went in search of more.
Mist rose from the river, shrouding everything.
I didn't have much luck finding dry wood, and had to make do with what I could scrape together. Damp kindling and moist twigs do not a good fire make, and for the first time, the BushBuddy struggled to bring my pot to a boil - taking almost 40 minutes of continuous, frustrated coaxing.
But eventually it worked. Oatmeal was consumed. The SpinnTwin was taken down. The amazing huckePACK was loaded. And I was ready for a morning stroll.
I was in no hurry to return, so decided to take the long way back to the car and explore the park a little more.
As the sun rose and the mist evaporated, I followed a trail along the banks of the St. Croix.
I followed old military trails and logging tracks dating from the early 1800s.
Suddenly, a flash of white above me. From the treetops, a bald eagle swept into the air. As usual I fumbled for my camera, too slow to capture it. It flow across to an island and landed near it's nest, watching me.
Further along the trail a came across what I assume was it's lunch (there were no nests nearby anyway).
At the site of an old logging dam I turned away from the river and headed inland, towards the prairies.
The variation of landscapes in the park was very pleasant. Form hills to river, meadows to forest, thicket to prairie, it's a nicely rounded park which I had all to myself.
As the sun rose higher, it was time to try out my new "Survivorman" outfit.
Fortunately, I only had a few more hours to spend in the park, and no reason to start eating weevils. Instead nibbled on a delicious Tanka Buffalo bar and some dried cranberries.
Refreshed from trail food, and the trail itself, I found myself once again at the parking lot. I'd walked 8 miles - which surprised me. I felt I'd walked two or three at most. Such is the light-footed feeling one gets with trail runners like the Terrocs and a lighter load. I could have happily gone on all day, taking the longer path, following whatever diversion I happened upon. I felt relaxed, renewed, happy to have been exploring somewhere new.
I thought back on my fears yesterday – about that bear I heard, and that I thought I would assuredly see at some point. I must have been mad. A bear? When I could hear chickens? And no mention of bears in the park information. No signs about bear hanging. What was I thinking?
As I drove out the park, and passed a farm on the boundary I realised...
That bear I heard was probably a cow.
Wild River State Park
It is amazing how good some outdoor alone-time can do to you! My hubby sometimes sends me out when I get too cranky.
ReplyDeleteLovely pics.
I feel quite rejuvenated after reading this Mark! Your words took me on a journey I can very much identify with in my ramblings, all parts of the day, walking and camping, very much part of the experience. Fortunately I don't have that much chance to confuse cows, though that said I'd like to change that one day!
ReplyDeleteI did love your photography too, especially the beautiful lake views and the dense pine woods with flashes of orange that make the green sing. Lovely!
A lot of useful information here regarding the bristlecone, and never misjudge the overnight temps. Those huckePACKs look great. And the photography is stunning, I just love the night shots and the mist on the river is just magical. Thanks Mark.
ReplyDeleteGreat story and pictures! A bear and cows, those moments of imagination sound so familiar. I love the pic with a curved light at night.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the tip on the shock cord on pillow, have to try it.
Awesome pictures, Mark. I especially like the one of the frozen gear. Had a similar experience during an outing with my wife. Temperature dropped unexpected to freezing and the former dampness converted to frost on our gear. Thats both a shocking as well as an inspiring and beautiful experience!
ReplyDeletereally fantastic early morning images, survivorman! you made it out to don a headscarf with the best of them.
ReplyDeleteLovely pics, especially the gear covered in a thin ice cover in the morning. That doesn't mean the other photos are rubbish, either ;)
ReplyDeleteForty minutes for a boil, though - Mark, we need to practice that again, I think! And we shall, when you and M are back in the holy land (which now gets a real Nazi Party, yeah!).
Wow some incredible photos there, particularly loved the night sky filled with stars. A great post - love the bear story!
ReplyDeleteMark, Nice post, the great thing about camping in the US ( and other countries) is the opportunity to make a camp fire or to use wood for fuel. Not often possible to do this in the UK and to me it seems to be part of the experience which is missing. Great photos, I like the star filled sky one.
ReplyDeleteMark
Thanks, Maria! I came back with a big smile on my face, so something worked!
ReplyDeleteThanks for your kind words, Helen!
ReplyDeleteI'm still half convinced it was a bear. It sounded a lot like a bear I once heard while camping in Romania, which was quite the terrifying night.
Yesterday BPL had one of Clelland!'s illustrations about changing our idea of being "in camp", to make it a place you only remain in briefly so you can experience more of the trail. To be honest, I didn't agree - I like to stop and soak up the atmosphere in one place for a little longer, if it's a nice place. A kind of mindfulness thing.
Thanks Roger! This was the first time when the sleeping arrangements really all came together. In fact, I pretty much used every piece of gear I took with me, apart from rain gear and my wind shirt. So in that sense I made some unusually good choices!
ReplyDeleteI was lucky to get a nice misty morning to take some photos. Without that, it would have taken a lot more patience to get some good shots :)
The curse of the dreaded cow-bear!!!
ReplyDeleteThanks! I can't take credit for the shock cord idea - I think it was suggested by one of the Rogers, but it worked a treat.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Basti! I was a little surprised. I was expecting temps close to zero, but my water bottle was pretty frozen, so I suspect it was a several degrees below. The cooling effect of the valley and river are no doubt to blame. Nevertheless, it was very pretty, and I was warm enough.
ReplyDeleteI'm looking forward to hearing about your Scottish adventures!
Thanks Hendrik!
ReplyDeleteI know - my forty minute boil is an embarrassing admission! I definitely need more practice in wet conditions.
To be fair, it was an unusual set of circumstances. In the evening there was dry wood aplenty, but the overnight frost, combined with close to zero temps, meant that every tiny piece of kindling was coated in a frosty layer which melted as soon as I picked it up. I should probably have searched out some resinous birch or juniper bark to get things moving along. Luckily I had a couple of vaseline-cotton balls to get my oatmeal and coffee going!
I normally hoard a stash of wood and keep it in a ziploc bag overnight, but all the Durban made me forget :) I've found that a plastic bag draws the moisture out of the wood, a bit like a solar still.
Cheers, Gareth! Oddly all that light pollution in the starry image was not visible to the naked eye.
ReplyDeleteThat's true - a fire grate is handy. Although, strictly speaking, I probably shouldn't have gathered fire wood for the BushBuddy according to the state park rules.
ReplyDeleteI'm not sure if I look more like Survivorman or one of those Scandinavian girls with the headscarfs!
ReplyDeleteHaha! The sasquatch of the Midwest!
ReplyDeleteI hate to see you leave Minnesota because I, too, love to make short trips out of the city: Afton, Wild River, Lake Maria, Banning. Friday night at Afton from my sleeping bag I watched 3 deer grazing and that trumped all the rain. (Pic is one of a series as the sky evolved Friday.) Your descriptions of local spots get me out the door.
ReplyDeleteSome great shots here Mark, especially liked the morning frost/mist. One thing I found using an air mat for the first time is now I need a pillow of some sort too, need to have a think about it...
ReplyDeleteVery nice trip report and great tip with the bungee cord and pillow, i will have to try that next time
ReplyDeleteThanks Jane, that's very kind of you. I'm happy if I help to get people outside :)
ReplyDeleteI've not been to Lake Maria or Banning yet, I'll look them up.
That's a dramatic cloud formation! It almost looks like cumulus mammatus.
I used to use my clothes bag, but in winter it gets emptied pretty quickly, so I tried some pillows. I first had a KookaBay: super light, but I found it a bit slippery. The Exped is a touch heavier, but quite luxurious. It has a lovely soft-touch coating, and it's shape is suited to side-sleepers.
ReplyDeleteI'll probably sell the KookaBay.
It worked a treat, Martin. An easy fix.
ReplyDeleteAbsolutely fantastic read. Throughly enjoyed your trip report and the photographs are great. The onces with the heavy frost, I've never seen anything like it. I like the trails you walk and hopefully one day we'll get to share one. Brilliant. Thanks for sharing.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Tookie - kind words. And I'm sure we can make a shared trail happen once I get back to Europa.
ReplyDeleteMy pleasure. I really enjoy your posts and look forward to them when
ReplyDeletethey hit my rss feeder.
Yes that be great, try & get some sort of pan European outdoor blogger
walk or something sorted.
Fantastic blog post, excellent photos, really enjoyed browsing them and will look at them again!
ReplyDeleteThat's a great blog post, well written. Fantastic photos as well! That night shot with the stars is a beauty. What sort of exposure time did you use to get that? I seem to get caught out with star trails so I'd be interested to see how you got the shot!
ReplyDeleteGreg
Cheers! Glad you liked it.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Greg. The night shot was, I think, about 1 minute. I specifically wanted to try to get a clear star shot, so I was trying out my Joby Gorilla Zoom mini tripod. it worked ok, but as I suspected, it's not super sturdy, and vibrates a little. If you look closely, each star has a double.
ReplyDeleteGreat post Mark. Interesting to read about your morning fire troubles. I've had similar experiences during the winter when everything seems to be covered with frost. Normally I don't need a knife when using the Bushbuddy, but in really damp conditions and with frost I think it is important to have one. It's a bit of a chore, but what worked for me on the 2010 Vålådalen trip was to strip the outer damp parts of birch branches with a knife. This way you create some dry fuel to get the fire going. I also find that small birch twigs (millimeter thick) burn quite well even when damp.
ReplyDeleteThanks Gustav. That's a good tip with the knife - I should have made a bit more effort making some kindling. I was just trying with a bunch of damp brush. Some birch would have been ideal but there was none around. Birch bark curls would have been perfect. Fortunately I had vaseline cotton balls, but even they had a hard time.
ReplyDelete